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Wednesday, February 6, 2008
Friday, January 26, 2007
Resilient Flooring Stains and Discoloration
Vinyl and most other types of resilient flooring don't need to be protected by waxing, but many floor products include wax to brighten the shine. Discoloration that results from wax buildup is easily remedied. Use a solution of white vinegar and water or a cleaner specifically formulated for your type of flooring.
Remove stains from vinyl right away, before they have time to permanently set. A clean cloth dipped in liquid floor cleaner is often the best bet. Scrub balky stains with a nylon pad.
Remove stains from vinyl right away, before they have time to permanently set. A clean cloth dipped in liquid floor cleaner is often the best bet. Scrub balky stains with a nylon pad.
Tips & Tricks for carpet
Buckling & Puckering
After extended use, a carpet may develop a series of ripples or ridges. This may be due to one of the following:
Dampness between carpet & floor
A soft or low density pad allowing distortion of the carpet under foot.
Inadequate stretching of the carpet when originally installed. Restretching should correct this problem.
Burns
Burns can be repaired by removing charred tips of the fibers with a small pair of fingernail scissors. If the burned spot is deep, it may require repair by a trained professional.
Fading
Science has yet to develop a color that will not fade with time. All carpets will slowly lose some color due to natural and artificial forces in the environment. Some ways to avoid fading are:
Purchase your floor coverings at the Carpet Outlet!
We have many floor coverings that are resistant to fading. All of the brands that we carry are the best in the world, and we stand behind every installation that our trained professionals perform.
Frequently remove dirt by vacuuming
Regularly change air filters in heating and A/C systems.
Reduce sunlight exposure with window coverings and or window tinting.
Footprints
Most deep cut pile carpets will show shoe or foot impressions. If you find this objectionable, a carpet of lower pile, or denser construction can help minimize this problem. Textured Saxonies are ideal for minimizing the appearance of footprints.
Indentations
(from furniture or heavy objects)
Change location of furniture often, even just a few inches. Brush the dented area or use a grooming tool to lift the carpet tufts upward. Try holding a steam iron a few inches above the carpet surface, and brush the tufts upward. Make sure you DO NOT allow the iron to touch the carpet surface! Vacuum the area preferrably with a beater bar type vacuum.
Seams
In larger installations, or the transition between rooms and halls seaming may be required. Where possible seams should run perpendicular to windows and not parallel. If seams show at all, they will be slightly more apparent with loop pile carpets rather than cut pile styles.
Shading
(vacuum marks)
Shading is a normal characteristic of a luxurious, dense, cut pile carpet. shading is most apparent right after vacuuming. This visual effect is caused by the tips of the carpet fibers reflecting light differently than the sides of the tufts. It is an aesthetic quality in carpet design, not a defect.
Shedding
Shedding is a normal occurance in new carpeting. the amount of fiber loss is of no consequence. Don't worry, regular vacuuming removes the loose fibers without harming the carpet.
Snags or Loose Threads
If tufts or threads are pulled out of the carpet, clip them off with scissors. NEVER PULL THEM. If a long "run" occurs, please call the Carpet Outlet immediately so that we can repair or glue the effected area.
Stains
By choosing one of the Carpet Outlet's quality carpets, made of advanced nylon carpet fiber with stain protection, most food and beverage spills can be cleaned up effectively if attended to promptly. You can call us her at the Carpet Outlet for live phone assistance in removing most common household stains, even if you bought your carpet elsewhere!
Static zzzzap!
Static can be effectively controlled by adding a room humidifier. Dry air is the main cause of static problems.
Protecting Your Investment
Most residential carpet does not actually wear out, instead it loses its original appearance and luster long before the fiber begins to wear down. Just how long your carpet will look good depends on a number of factors. Including carpet construction, household traffic patterns, exposure to soiling and stains, and of course maintenance.
In addition proper care and cleaning can make a positive difference in retaining your carpet's beauty over many years of regular use. So to get the most out of your investment, here are a few suggestions you should know about carpet care and maintenance.
1. Use Entrance Mats
Place mats inside and outside entrancesto trap soil before it can be tracked into your home. Soil is the greatest threat to your carpet's appearance.
2. Vacuum Regularly
You can''t vacuum too often.Use a vacuum with a beater bar which will raise the pile while it removes soil.
3. Blot up Spills Immediately
Imediate attention to spills and spots will make removal easier. Always blot the area being cleaned. NEVER rub, scrub or brush.
4. Clean Periodically
Have your carpet professionally steam cleaned before it shows traffic patterns. Soil particles can damage the carpet yarn. Refer to your warranty card for recommended cleaning procedures for your particular carpet fiber. Professional cleaning is the preferred method because it leaves the amount of residue. If you choose to "Do-It-Yourself" DO NOT use wet shampoo equipment. Shampooing can leave a soap residue which attracts and holds dirt.
After extended use, a carpet may develop a series of ripples or ridges. This may be due to one of the following:
Dampness between carpet & floor
A soft or low density pad allowing distortion of the carpet under foot.
Inadequate stretching of the carpet when originally installed. Restretching should correct this problem.
Burns
Burns can be repaired by removing charred tips of the fibers with a small pair of fingernail scissors. If the burned spot is deep, it may require repair by a trained professional.
Fading
Science has yet to develop a color that will not fade with time. All carpets will slowly lose some color due to natural and artificial forces in the environment. Some ways to avoid fading are:
Purchase your floor coverings at the Carpet Outlet!
We have many floor coverings that are resistant to fading. All of the brands that we carry are the best in the world, and we stand behind every installation that our trained professionals perform.
Frequently remove dirt by vacuuming
Regularly change air filters in heating and A/C systems.
Reduce sunlight exposure with window coverings and or window tinting.
Footprints
Most deep cut pile carpets will show shoe or foot impressions. If you find this objectionable, a carpet of lower pile, or denser construction can help minimize this problem. Textured Saxonies are ideal for minimizing the appearance of footprints.
Indentations
(from furniture or heavy objects)
Change location of furniture often, even just a few inches. Brush the dented area or use a grooming tool to lift the carpet tufts upward. Try holding a steam iron a few inches above the carpet surface, and brush the tufts upward. Make sure you DO NOT allow the iron to touch the carpet surface! Vacuum the area preferrably with a beater bar type vacuum.
Seams
In larger installations, or the transition between rooms and halls seaming may be required. Where possible seams should run perpendicular to windows and not parallel. If seams show at all, they will be slightly more apparent with loop pile carpets rather than cut pile styles.
Shading
(vacuum marks)
Shading is a normal characteristic of a luxurious, dense, cut pile carpet. shading is most apparent right after vacuuming. This visual effect is caused by the tips of the carpet fibers reflecting light differently than the sides of the tufts. It is an aesthetic quality in carpet design, not a defect.
Shedding
Shedding is a normal occurance in new carpeting. the amount of fiber loss is of no consequence. Don't worry, regular vacuuming removes the loose fibers without harming the carpet.
Snags or Loose Threads
If tufts or threads are pulled out of the carpet, clip them off with scissors. NEVER PULL THEM. If a long "run" occurs, please call the Carpet Outlet immediately so that we can repair or glue the effected area.
Stains
By choosing one of the Carpet Outlet's quality carpets, made of advanced nylon carpet fiber with stain protection, most food and beverage spills can be cleaned up effectively if attended to promptly. You can call us her at the Carpet Outlet for live phone assistance in removing most common household stains, even if you bought your carpet elsewhere!
Static zzzzap!
Static can be effectively controlled by adding a room humidifier. Dry air is the main cause of static problems.
Protecting Your Investment
Most residential carpet does not actually wear out, instead it loses its original appearance and luster long before the fiber begins to wear down. Just how long your carpet will look good depends on a number of factors. Including carpet construction, household traffic patterns, exposure to soiling and stains, and of course maintenance.
In addition proper care and cleaning can make a positive difference in retaining your carpet's beauty over many years of regular use. So to get the most out of your investment, here are a few suggestions you should know about carpet care and maintenance.
1. Use Entrance Mats
Place mats inside and outside entrancesto trap soil before it can be tracked into your home. Soil is the greatest threat to your carpet's appearance.
2. Vacuum Regularly
You can''t vacuum too often.Use a vacuum with a beater bar which will raise the pile while it removes soil.
3. Blot up Spills Immediately
Imediate attention to spills and spots will make removal easier. Always blot the area being cleaned. NEVER rub, scrub or brush.
4. Clean Periodically
Have your carpet professionally steam cleaned before it shows traffic patterns. Soil particles can damage the carpet yarn. Refer to your warranty card for recommended cleaning procedures for your particular carpet fiber. Professional cleaning is the preferred method because it leaves the amount of residue. If you choose to "Do-It-Yourself" DO NOT use wet shampoo equipment. Shampooing can leave a soap residue which attracts and holds dirt.
Avoiding Trouble with Wood Floors
How to Spot Problems with Your Wood Floors
In a comfortable home with slight humidity variations through the seasons, wood flooring responds by expanding and contracting. These changes may be noticeable. During warm, humid weather, wood expands. During dry weather, wood contracts. This seasonal movement is a normal characteristic of wood flooring, and it never stops, regardless of the age of the wood. One of the best ways to ensure that wood flooring will give the performance homeowners expect is to install humidity controls and ensure that they are functioning before the flooring is installed.
Working with humidity controlsA homeowner who chooses hardwood flooring is making an investment in a floor that will last 40 years or more, and he or she should protect that investment by installing humidity controls--a tool that helps the floor maintain a beautiful, trouble-free appearance.
Cracks and separations between boardsNearly every floor endures some separation between boards. In winter, when homes are heated and the air is dry, wood flooring gives up some of its moisture and therefore shrinks. When that happens, thin cracks appear between. This is normal, and homeowners should be forewarned of this. It is acceptable, and customers should not be calling the installers at the first sign of cracks. Once the indoor heat goes off in the spring, and the indoor environment regains moisture, most of these cracks will close up.
Cracks in winter--in the drier months--may easily develop to the thickness of a dime (1/32 inch) for solid 2 1/4-inch wide strip oak floors. Floors with light stained woods and naturally light woods like maple tend to show cracks more than darker, wood-tone finished floors.
The cure for cracks? Homeowners should add moisture to the air during dry periods. It's their choice-live with the cracks and wait until spring, or else add humidity by opening the dishwasher after a rinse cycle, switching off the bathroom fan or hanging laundry to dry in the basement near the furnace. Better yet, install a humidifier in the furnace, or an exterior air vent for the furnace burner.
If cracks are a concern, laminated flooring moves less and shows fewer gaps.
"Cupping and crowning" are common complaints that develop with high humidity. Both problems occur across the width of the flooring material.
Cupping is when the edges of a board are high and its center is lower. It can occur after water spills onto the floor and is absorbed by the wood, but high humidity is more often the cause. If the wood expands significantly, compression set can result as the boards are crushed together, deforming the boards at the edges.
Cupping is caused by a moisture imbalance through the thickness of the wood: The wood is wetter on the bottom of the board than on the top. The moisture imbalance can be proven by taking moisture meter readings at different pin depths.
The first step in repairing a cupped floor is to identify and eliminate the moisture source. In the kitchen, it may be a leak from the dishwasher or icemaker. From outdoors, it might be the terrain of the lot, with rain and runoff not moving away from the house and foundation. Indoors, the humidity may need to be controlled, or a plumbing leak may be causing excess moisture in the basement, which migrates up into the subfloor and from there into the wood flooring.
Once the source of the moisture is controlled, cupping can usually be cured. The floor may improve on its own as it dries out over time. Other times, fans may be needed to speed the drying process. Once the moisture content has stabilized, the floor can be reassessed. Choices may be to do nothing at all, to recoat the floor or to sand and refinish the floor. However, it should not be sanded until moisture-meter readings indicate the floor is thoroughly dried.
Crowning is the opposite of cupping: The center of a board is higher than the edges. Moisture imbalance is sometimes the cause of crowning if excessive moisture is introduced on the top of the floor, perhaps from water used in maintenance or plumbing leaks from an overhead sprinkler system. However, a common cause is that the floor was previously cupped, but was sanded at the wrong time-before the moisture content returned to normal and the board flattened on its own.
It should be noted that some slight cupping and crowning may occur naturally, and should be tolerated: The bark side of lumber shrinks and swells more than the side closest to the center of the tree. Largely seasonal in occurrence, it's common in wider planks. Its appearance can be minimized by using a beveled-edge flooring product with a satin finish, rather than square-edge flooring with a high gloss finish.
Buckled floorsThe "buckling" of hardwood floors-when the flooring literary pulls away from the subfloor, lifting up to several inches in one or more places-is one of the most extreme reactions to moisture that can occur. Fortunately, it is not a common occurrence.
Buckling happens most often after a floor is flooded for a time, but there are numerous other causes. On nailed floors, insufficient nailing, incorrect nails or incorrect subfloor construction are possibilities. On glue-down floors, the causes range from the use of incorrect or insufficient mastics to an inadequate mastic transfer, a subfloor separation or a subfloor contamination. See Moisture Detection Equipment.
In flooded hardwood strip flooring, the swelling stress is theoretically high enough to push out walls. However, before that can happen the nails or the glue holding the flooring to the subfloor wil1 usually give way, so that the floor bulges upward.
If buckling floors are caught early, spot repair and replacement may be possible. Once the standing water is removed, several boards may be taken up from the floor so that air can be circulated across and below the floor more effectively. Once the floor has dried to a more stable moisture level, repairs can usually be made.
Some tips on maintenanceThe enjoyment of wood flooring depends on some routine but minimal maintenance details. These include:
Sweep your floors or use a dust mop daily, but do not use a household dust treatment, as this may cause your floors to become slick or dull the finish.
Vacuum your floor regularly, as often as you would vacuum carpets.
Clean your floor's coated surface with a lightly dampened cloth using a recommended cleaning product, and according to the manufacturer's directions for use.
Never damp mop a wood floor. In all cases, use minimum water, because water causes deterioration of the wood itself, as well as the finish.
Buy a "floor care kit" that your installer or flooring retailer recommends instead of counting on a home-made remedy of vinegar and water to clean your floors. Different finishes have different maintenance requirements, and it's best to follow professional advice in this area.
Clean light stains by rubbing with a damp cloth
Avoid using mops or cloths that leave excessive water on the floor. Never let a spill of water dry on the floor.
Control humidity levels by use of a dehumidifier or humidifier. You may need to add portable units in some rooms.
Have your floors recoated periodically as the finish shows wear.
Do not clean your wood floors with water or water-based products on a regular schedule. Clean only when necessary and clean only the soiled areas.
RELATED PAGES:
Flooded Wood Floors
Maintenance - Do's & Don'ts For your wood floors
Wood Floors and Water
Sources of Moisture
Wood's Acclimation
Testing for Moisture
Troubleshooting Moisture related Situations
Radiant Heating under Wood Floors
Moisture Detection Equipment
In a comfortable home with slight humidity variations through the seasons, wood flooring responds by expanding and contracting. These changes may be noticeable. During warm, humid weather, wood expands. During dry weather, wood contracts. This seasonal movement is a normal characteristic of wood flooring, and it never stops, regardless of the age of the wood. One of the best ways to ensure that wood flooring will give the performance homeowners expect is to install humidity controls and ensure that they are functioning before the flooring is installed.
Working with humidity controlsA homeowner who chooses hardwood flooring is making an investment in a floor that will last 40 years or more, and he or she should protect that investment by installing humidity controls--a tool that helps the floor maintain a beautiful, trouble-free appearance.
Cracks and separations between boardsNearly every floor endures some separation between boards. In winter, when homes are heated and the air is dry, wood flooring gives up some of its moisture and therefore shrinks. When that happens, thin cracks appear between. This is normal, and homeowners should be forewarned of this. It is acceptable, and customers should not be calling the installers at the first sign of cracks. Once the indoor heat goes off in the spring, and the indoor environment regains moisture, most of these cracks will close up.
Cracks in winter--in the drier months--may easily develop to the thickness of a dime (1/32 inch) for solid 2 1/4-inch wide strip oak floors. Floors with light stained woods and naturally light woods like maple tend to show cracks more than darker, wood-tone finished floors.
The cure for cracks? Homeowners should add moisture to the air during dry periods. It's their choice-live with the cracks and wait until spring, or else add humidity by opening the dishwasher after a rinse cycle, switching off the bathroom fan or hanging laundry to dry in the basement near the furnace. Better yet, install a humidifier in the furnace, or an exterior air vent for the furnace burner.
If cracks are a concern, laminated flooring moves less and shows fewer gaps.
"Cupping and crowning" are common complaints that develop with high humidity. Both problems occur across the width of the flooring material.
Cupping is when the edges of a board are high and its center is lower. It can occur after water spills onto the floor and is absorbed by the wood, but high humidity is more often the cause. If the wood expands significantly, compression set can result as the boards are crushed together, deforming the boards at the edges.
Cupping is caused by a moisture imbalance through the thickness of the wood: The wood is wetter on the bottom of the board than on the top. The moisture imbalance can be proven by taking moisture meter readings at different pin depths.
The first step in repairing a cupped floor is to identify and eliminate the moisture source. In the kitchen, it may be a leak from the dishwasher or icemaker. From outdoors, it might be the terrain of the lot, with rain and runoff not moving away from the house and foundation. Indoors, the humidity may need to be controlled, or a plumbing leak may be causing excess moisture in the basement, which migrates up into the subfloor and from there into the wood flooring.
Once the source of the moisture is controlled, cupping can usually be cured. The floor may improve on its own as it dries out over time. Other times, fans may be needed to speed the drying process. Once the moisture content has stabilized, the floor can be reassessed. Choices may be to do nothing at all, to recoat the floor or to sand and refinish the floor. However, it should not be sanded until moisture-meter readings indicate the floor is thoroughly dried.
Crowning is the opposite of cupping: The center of a board is higher than the edges. Moisture imbalance is sometimes the cause of crowning if excessive moisture is introduced on the top of the floor, perhaps from water used in maintenance or plumbing leaks from an overhead sprinkler system. However, a common cause is that the floor was previously cupped, but was sanded at the wrong time-before the moisture content returned to normal and the board flattened on its own.
It should be noted that some slight cupping and crowning may occur naturally, and should be tolerated: The bark side of lumber shrinks and swells more than the side closest to the center of the tree. Largely seasonal in occurrence, it's common in wider planks. Its appearance can be minimized by using a beveled-edge flooring product with a satin finish, rather than square-edge flooring with a high gloss finish.
Buckled floorsThe "buckling" of hardwood floors-when the flooring literary pulls away from the subfloor, lifting up to several inches in one or more places-is one of the most extreme reactions to moisture that can occur. Fortunately, it is not a common occurrence.
Buckling happens most often after a floor is flooded for a time, but there are numerous other causes. On nailed floors, insufficient nailing, incorrect nails or incorrect subfloor construction are possibilities. On glue-down floors, the causes range from the use of incorrect or insufficient mastics to an inadequate mastic transfer, a subfloor separation or a subfloor contamination. See Moisture Detection Equipment.
In flooded hardwood strip flooring, the swelling stress is theoretically high enough to push out walls. However, before that can happen the nails or the glue holding the flooring to the subfloor wil1 usually give way, so that the floor bulges upward.
If buckling floors are caught early, spot repair and replacement may be possible. Once the standing water is removed, several boards may be taken up from the floor so that air can be circulated across and below the floor more effectively. Once the floor has dried to a more stable moisture level, repairs can usually be made.
Some tips on maintenanceThe enjoyment of wood flooring depends on some routine but minimal maintenance details. These include:
Sweep your floors or use a dust mop daily, but do not use a household dust treatment, as this may cause your floors to become slick or dull the finish.
Vacuum your floor regularly, as often as you would vacuum carpets.
Clean your floor's coated surface with a lightly dampened cloth using a recommended cleaning product, and according to the manufacturer's directions for use.
Never damp mop a wood floor. In all cases, use minimum water, because water causes deterioration of the wood itself, as well as the finish.
Buy a "floor care kit" that your installer or flooring retailer recommends instead of counting on a home-made remedy of vinegar and water to clean your floors. Different finishes have different maintenance requirements, and it's best to follow professional advice in this area.
Clean light stains by rubbing with a damp cloth
Avoid using mops or cloths that leave excessive water on the floor. Never let a spill of water dry on the floor.
Control humidity levels by use of a dehumidifier or humidifier. You may need to add portable units in some rooms.
Have your floors recoated periodically as the finish shows wear.
Do not clean your wood floors with water or water-based products on a regular schedule. Clean only when necessary and clean only the soiled areas.
RELATED PAGES:
Flooded Wood Floors
Maintenance - Do's & Don'ts For your wood floors
Wood Floors and Water
Sources of Moisture
Wood's Acclimation
Testing for Moisture
Troubleshooting Moisture related Situations
Radiant Heating under Wood Floors
Moisture Detection Equipment
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